Building stairs is probably the most challenging part of building a deck for most do-it-yourselfers because it involves some basic mathematics and accuracy is essential. Firstly, there are set rise and runs for various types of stairs depending on the usage. Go to the building code page to learn more about the variances for stair rises and tread sizes. Styles of Stairs But this method is slightly more advanced so for this stair building lesson we will go right to the most common and basic way to build stairs with a notched stringer. The Rule of Thumb for DecksA seven to nine inch rise is the right range for an outdoor deck. Tread size should fall within eight to twelve inches. On commercial buildings and interior residential stairs the rise and runs can be significantly different but for your deck, and the one I built here, I used a seven inch rise and an eleven inch run. Very comfortable. Stairs inside your house will generally have at least an eight inch rise to conform with the building code. |
You must accurately determine the vertical drop from the finished surface of the deck to the exact location of the stairs landing point.
The landing point is further away from the deck so it may not be the same level as directly below the deck. Take this into consideration. The diagram below illustrates the concept of rises and run nicely.
This
rise was a convenient 44. This allowed for 6 rises of exactly 7.33
or about 7 ¼. Using two 2x6s with a ¼ gap created
a stair tread size of about 11 ¼. To determine the total run
we multiplied the run size of ten inches (not the actual tread because we
wanted the treads to overhang slightly) by the number of rises (6x10=60).
The total run was 60.
Take
a carpenters square and mark the first rise and run by laying out
the square so that the 7 ¼ and 10 points coincide with
the edge of the stringer as in this picture.
Now extend the line of the tread all across the stringer as depicted in
this picture.
Finally,
extend the line of the rise all the way down to the underside of the stringer
as depicted in this picture.
Now continue measuring and tracing out each notch until you have completed six rises. To finish the stringer layout, extend the bottom line of the last run backwards to the bottom edge of the stringer.
This
will be the point of the stringer that contacts the landing. Cut out the
waste with a circular saw.
The
throat of the stringer should never be less than 3.5 or
you will weaken the stringer.
To
create a bull nose or overhang for each tread, a tread size of 11 ½
was chosen and an 1 ½ overhang was used.
This will work out well for a 10 inch run. The picture below explains the concept of rise and run as well as the tread size and overhang.
The
same concept applies to determining the unit rise and runs for the stringers
except the stringer is not cut.
Instead, galvanized steel brackets are attached under the tread location and the treads are screwed on. And to prolong the life of the stringer and the treads, leave a gap for water flow as shown in the picture.
Another
great tip for building stairs is to elevate the bottom of the contact point
of the stringer from the landing to keep the stringer dry.
This
is the most common way to attach deck stairs to the deck. But this method
of building stairs requires a solid connection and enough contact area on
the deck perimeter to ensure a good hold. Metal brackets are recommended.
In
the case of this deck, we used a solid stair stringer and attached the stringer
to the deck using galvanized angle brackets for a very secure attachment
and reliable technique to building stairs.
You now have all the basics you will need to begin building stairs for
your deck. So if you feel you are ready, let's go to Installing
The Railing.
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"Thanks again Richard for FedExing the other shipment of the Titan Anchors. They are installed, sturdy and look great. I am really happy with them here is a picture of the deck."
Kyle D. - Richardson, Texas